Waterton Lakes may be the smallest of Canada’s Rocky Mountain National Parks, but it pulls more than its weight when it comes to amazing landscapes, wildlife, and biodiversity. It is home to half of the plant species found in Alberta, including several rarities, and it has more plant species than anywhere in the Canadian Rockies. Wildlife runs the gamut from black and grizzly bears to elk, wolves, coyotes, cougars, bighorn sheep, and more. We have been especially impressed with the number of bear sightings on our visits here.
Unlike other Rocky Mountain parks, Waterton does not have foothills transitioning from prairies to mountains. This unique landscape brings high biodiversity with a mingling of grassland and alpine environments.
Top things to do range from scenic drives to a wealth of hiking and biking trails, wildlife viewing, historic sites, and just soaking up the awesome scenery. A bonus is that Waterton tends to be less crowded and busier than other mountain parks.
Waterton Glacier International Peace Park
Just across the border from Waterton Lakes is Glacier National Park in Montana. Together they make up Waterton Glacier International Park, recognizing peace and goodwill between nations and the importance of international cooperation in protecting wilderness. When designated in 1995 it became the first park of its kind in the world and has since become a template for international cooperation in other parts of the globe. The park is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Explore Red Rock Canyon
If we had to pick one of the best must-do attractions in the park, this would be it. Calling the canyon simply red is an understatement. It’s so blazingly, in-your-face, fire-engine red that when you look at photos you can’t help but wonder if the colours are for real. But they are, made of thick sedimentary beds of red argillite rock. We never tire of visiting this place, wandering along its brilliant banks and exploring unending photo possibilities.
Visit the Prince of Wales Hotel
It is arguably the most spectacularly situated hotel in Canada, perched on a hilltop overlooking Upper and Middle Waterton Lakes. Opened in 1927, the Great Northern Railway built the hotel to attract wealthy American tourists. Unlike other grand railway hotels of the era, its architecture has distinctive Swiss chalet components. Still known as Waterton’s top hotel, it is also a historic site where visitors are welcome to wander through its massive lobby.
Take an Interpretive Sightseeing Cruise
A highlight of Waterton is the boat trip operated by Shoreline Cruise. While they also do a shorter trip, the longer cruise (just over two hours) extends along the full length of Upper Waterton Lake – the deepest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies. We pass some incredible mountain scenery along the way as the boat’s guide provides the lowdown on the landscape, wildlife, and what makes Waterton unique.
The boat used is the historic M.V. International, the oldest passenger vessel still operating in Canada. Built in 1927, it has been completely refurbished but still retains that look from a bygone era. As the name suggests, the boat crosses the international border. The southern tip of Upper Waterton Lake lies in the United States where we disembark without border formalities or passports, all because of the Waterton Glacier International Peace Park.
We land at the Goat Haunt Ranger Station on the Montana side which is only accessible by water or along hiking trails. We spend a half hour here while a US Park Ranger shows us around and provides a talk on this beautiful area where mountain goats like to hang out.
Follow scenic driving routes
The premier drive is the 15-kilometre-long Red Rock Canyon Parkway. Besides the spectacular canyon itself, we also have access to scenic viewpoints, picnic sites, and trailheads. It is one of the best drives for wildflowers.
The 16-kilometre-long paved Akamina Parkway starts near the townsite and winds along Cameron Valley as it climbs to Cameron Lake. The route has access to many trailheads and picnic sites. An unusual historic feature is the site of the first oil well in Western Canada, drilled here in 1902. It’s a great route for spotting wildlife, especially bears and bighorn sheep.
The Bison Paddock Loop Road is sometimes overlooked because it is separated from the main part of the park. You leave the park at the entrance gate, travel a couple of kilometres north on Highway 6, then take the signed access road back into the park. The short loop road winds through fescue prairie in the bison paddock. The huge animals could be anywhere, though it’s not unusual to find them lounging beside the road for some dramatic close-up views.
Take a hike or several hikes
You will be spoiled for hiking choices with everything from multi-day excursions to leisurely day hikes. If you’re up for a challenge, the park is home to the famous Crypt Lake Trail which National Geographic named as one of the “World’s 20 Most Thrilling Trails”. But for easy-going options with amazing landscapes, here are three short hikes that we like.
The Bear’s Hump is the park’s iconic walk, named for resembling the hump on a grizzly bear when looked at from a distance. The 2.8-kilometre return walk begins near the turnoff to the Prince of Wales Hotel and climbs steeply for a gain of 225 metres. Rated as moderate, there is nothing difficult about it, just a lot of up, up, and more up. The view from the top makes it all worthwhile as we gaze over the townsite just below and the lakes and mountains beyond.
The 5.2-kilometre return Lower Bertha Falls Trail starts near the townsite and heads to a beautiful bridal veil falls. The 175-metre gain is gradual as we pass along the high trail overlooking Upper Waterton Lake before heading inland into a beautiful valley.
Combine the Red Rock Canyon Loop with Blakiston Falls. On this very easy walk we circle both sides of the famous canyon then take a side trip to Blakiston Falls for a total of less than three kilometres. Viewing platforms provide easy access to the impressive falls.
Waterton is a four-season destination
Each season has its special attractions. Spring is wildflower season. The park boasts over 400 flowering plants, and here again, it’s the mix of grassland and alpine habitats that provides a tremendous variety and wild colours. We find mountain plants like brilliant yellow glacier lilies growing next to prairie crocuses.
The park suggests that the Kootenay Brown Trail along the main entrance road to the Waterton townsite, and the Bellevue Trail, running between the Red Rock Parkway and the bison paddock, as highlights for flowers. But we found prolific wildflowers everywhere. Mid-June is usually peak time, although some start blooming in May and extend well into the summer. In past years there have even been spring wildflower festivals.
Summer is the main tourist season in Waterton, with the best weather and all services operating. Special events are often planned, and interpretive programs offered by the park are in full swing. Beach activities and picnics are popular pastimes, as is visiting Cameron Falls right in the townsite. Also stop in at the new visitor centre to see the interactive displays and pick up maps and park information. On the drives and trails, it’s hard to miss prolific stands of bright magenta fireweed that appeared soon after the Kenow Fire in 2017. During our last summer trip, we met photographers who came specifically for the fireweed displays.
Fall is an excellent time to visit with pleasant weather, no summertime crowds, and fall colours adding to the beauty of the landscape. With cooler temperatures, there’s a better chance of finding wildlife, even in the middle of the day. A highlight is the elk rut, with males making a big fuss by bugling loudly, gathering their harems, and fending off rivals. The main elk hotspots are just northeast of the townsite along Hay Barn Road and near the riding stables.
If you do wish to visit in the winter, check out our guide to the winter in Waterton.
World’s First International Dark Sky Park
Waterton, along with adjoining Glacier National Park in the US, became the world’s first International Dark Sky Park. A dark sky designation means that the location is relatively free from major sources of light pollution and that it has committed to take steps to minimize the light that is already there. For example, the townsite has new street lights that shine down, causing less interference with our view of the sky.
To best appreciate the night sky, a guided trip with Dark Sky Guides helps to put it all in perspective. Owned and operated by Waterton native Keith Robinson, Dark Sky Guides offers a few different experiences. We are fortunate to have gone out on two of Keith’s night excursions.
The first was their Dark Sky Adventure Tour which, when it first started, won a Travel Alberta Alto Award for the best New Tourism Experience of the Year. Keith drove our small group to the end of the road on the Red Rock Parkway, and then donning headlamps we hiked to the viewing platform over Blakiston Falls. We settled into the benches and turned our headlamps off. With no light pollution to interfere, the sky came alive. Keith talked about the stars and constellations and the stories behind them. The only light was when Keith used his special laser pointer that was powerful enough to pick out stars. It wasn’t simply star-gazing but gaining a new appreciation for the sky that is always above us.
More recently we did another excursion with Keith. This time it was close to the full moon so the sky wouldn’t be as dark. Keith solved this by taking his state-of-the-art powerful telescope that can magnify star clusters and nebula that are almost impossible to see otherwise. He also pointed the telescope to the moon. It usually isn’t easy to see detail in the moon when it is so bright, but Keith could adjust the telescope for this and we ended up with the clearest look at the moon that we have ever seen.
Keith picks each night’s location based on prevailing conditions. That night he took us next to the bison paddock on the north edge of the park. Mountains loom to the south and west while to the north is uninterrupted sky over the prairies. He chose the spot because there was the possibility of northern lights. We settled into special foldout chairs designed for star-gazing that can tilt backward and have a neck rest, making it easier to look up.
Close to midnight, the aurora borealis did indeed show up, with ripples of green and red flashing across the northern sky. It turned out to be an unforgettable night – dead calm which is a rare treat in windy Waterton, listening to the grunts of nearby bison and the howl of coyotes in the distance, while watching lights dance across the sky.
For more night sky experiences, take in a show at the Waterton Planetarium. Dark Sky Guides operates this as well, housed in a former Parks Canada interpretive centre in the townsite. Visitors sit in reclining seats under the dome where a special 360-degree projector immerses them in the presentation. The show we enjoyed was called One Sky which looks at the stories and traditions about the night sky from the viewpoint of different cultures around the world. The theme is that we may have different stories about what we see at night, but we all share one sky.
Where to stay in Waterton
Camping
The Townsite Campground is operated by Parks Canada and is located right in the townsite on the shores of Upper Waterton Lake. Choose among full-service, electricity-only, and unserviced sites. From the campground, it is easy to walk everywhere in the townsite area.
The only other road-accessible front-country camping option is the Belly River Campground located along the Chief Mountain Highway, close to the border crossing into Montana. This 24-site unserviced campground is great for a more secluded experience.
Crandell Mountain Campground along the Red Rock Canyon Parkway was destroyed by the Kenow Fire in 2017. Parks Canada has long-term plans to re-open it although no timelines are indicated.
Hotels, Motels and Inns
Despite the small size of the Waterton townsite, it has some great accommodation choices in addition to the Prince of Wales Hotel which dominates the park. The Waterton Lakes Chamber of Commerce has a full listing. Here are a couple of spots that caught our eye.
Bayshore Inn & Spa is one of the top places to stay with its ideal location right on the waterfront. With 70 guest rooms, it also has restaurant choices ranging from fine dining to a coffee shop and bar, plus the Serenity Spa where you can revitalize after a day of adventure.
Bear Mountain Motel is considered a classic 1950s motel where you can drive right up to your room. Some rooms have kitchenettes. A nice touch that we enjoyed is patio chairs outside the rooms and central barbecues and picnic tables for guests’ use.
Where to Eat in Waterton
The Lakeside Chophouse offers fine dining with international cuisine including top specialties of Alberta Beef and local game meats. Part of the Bayshore Inn complex, it is the only lakeside restaurant in Waterton, so the outdoor patio is always busy.
For takeout food, try Weiners of Waterton. Gourmet hotdogs are on offer and they are especially famous for their sweet potato fries.
As you can see, Waterton seems to have it all in a relatively compact size where it is easy to get around. No matter how many times we visit we’re always discovering new places and new experiences.
For more things to do in Alberta, check out some of our other travel guides:
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