Only one area in Canada is a true desert – the southern end of the Okanagan Valley near Osoyoos, BC. While many parts of the country have arid terrain, even vast expanses of sand dunes which seem desert-like, they have considerably more moisture than deserts. Osoyoos is different, and we get a hint of that as we pass the highway sign outside town proclaiming “Canada’s Warmest Welcome”. Here we find the country’s warmest annual temperature, the warmest freshwater lake, and most significantly – Canada’s lowest annual precipitation.
Osoyoos Desert Centre
To learn more, we visited the Osoyoos Desert Centre just three kilometres north of town on Highway 97. The centre encompasses a 67-acre nature preserve that was once a cattle farm. About 25 years later, the ecosystem is again thriving with blooming native plants and desert-adapted animals, insects, and amphibians.
Technically, the area is called antelope brush shrub-steppe, according to Jayme Friedt, Executive Director of the Centre. It is one of the most endangered ecosystems in Canada, with less than 9% remaining relatively undisturbed. Since they have been overseeing the land, efforts have been centred around restoration, conservation, and education to preserve this rare habitat.
What exactly is a “desert”? The Centre’s biologist and guide Kaylee helped put things into perspective, explaining that scientists have different ways of defining a “desert”. But no matter how we look at it, the Osoyoos area fits most of the criteria.
“A desert gets less than 250 mm of moisture per year,” said Kaylee. “We get slightly more, about 315 mm, but have high evaporation rates, sandy soil where water drains quickly, and plants and animals that have adapted to the arid conditions.”
A Walk Through the Desert Centre
A 1.5-kilometre raised boardwalk extends throughout the area with benches and interpretive panels telling you more about the special flora and fauna. Pick up a self-guided brochure at the visitor centre or download one from the centre’s website. You can either walk the boardwalk at your own pace or opt for a guided tour (several are offered throughout the day). We chose the tour which this day was led by Kaylee.
Kaylee began by setting the stage for our visit. “This antelope-brush ecosystem is one of the rarest and most endangered in Canada. The biggest reason it’s endangered is habitat loss to housing, vineyards and such. The second is invasive species that act like bullies and push out native species. We need to find a balance and protect enough of these areas so that plants and animals have a place to live.”
While antelope brush is the dominant shrub, the south Okanagan is the northernmost extent of its range. Kaylee likened it to an iceberg, where we see a 2-3 metre plant above ground, but its roots extend as many as 6 metres below the surface searching for water. Its seeds are important food sources for many animals including the Great Basin pocket mouse that caches seeds underground that eventually produce new plants.
“This area has more bat species than anywhere else in the country,” explained Kaylee, owing largely to the warmer climate and dry grasslands. The Okanagan Valley in southern BC is the only place in Canada to have the threatened pallid bat. Unlike other bat species that hunt flying insects from greater heights, pallid bats hunt closer to the ground, listening for rustling sounds from insects, scorpions, or mice.
What’s a desert without snakes? Several types occur here including the western rattlesnake, western yellow-bellied racer, and the harmless gopher snake that can grow close to two metres long. Kaylee showed us a rattle from a rattlesnake, then added that if you hear a sound like a rattle, it could either be a snake or a young burrowing owl that can mimic that sound to keep predators at bay.
Animals such as bears, coyotes, badgers, and deer frequently roam throughout the area. We found their scat along the boardwalk. Sometimes abandoned badger burrows are used by other animals, adding to the diversity of desert life.
Conservation efforts are paying off. We watched western bluebirds flying near the buildings. Though they lost their natural nesting places when large trees were removed years ago, the bluebirds quickly and easily accepted nesting boxes. Now they stay year-round.
Another example is the Great Basin spadefoot, an endangered toad-like amphibian that researchers discovered living near water troughs on the former ranch. Now the centre maintains two ponds so the spadefoot can dig down in the mud using the specially adapted spades on its feet and survive drought conditions.
When to Visit the Osoyoos Desert Centre
The centre is open from May through early October. Bring a picnic lunch to enjoy in the shade outside the interpretive building. A modest admission is charged, and discounts are available for families, seniors, and youth. There is no extra charge for the guided tour.
Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre
Another impressive place to learn more about desert ecology and conservation is the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre on Spirit Ridge overlooking Osoyoos Lake. Here we not only learn about the unique landscape but also about the culture of the people who live here and how they use the land.
Situated within a 1600-acre piece of desert habitat, the state-of-the-art interpretive centre provides an insightful look at Indigenous culture and traditions both past and present. The centre focuses on the the Sylix Peoples, and more specifically the Osoyoos Indian Band of the South Okanagan Region. The word Nk’Mip (pronounced “in-ka-meep”) in the local language refers to the “bottomland” or lower areas near the lake where the band lives.
As you drive into the area, you can’t miss the metal statue of a man on a horse. He holds a peace pipe to welcome visitors. This is one of many art installations throughout the complex created by acclaimed Indigenous artist Virgil “Smoker” Marchard.
The huge eco-friendly interpretive centre was designed to blend into the landscape and is partially built into the hillside. It has an earth wall and a green roof where the desert landscape can expand. Reminiscent of traditional winter dwellings, it is partially submerged, its thick walls providing insulation that helps to conserve energy.
Inside, you can watch multi-media presentations describing the legends of Sen’klip (Coyote) and how the people continue to be stewards of the land. We found the Day School Exhibit particularly interesting. Like a window to the past, it features drawings and paintings of meaningful cultural aspects in the lives of children attending school in the 1930s.
There are also indoor habitats where western rattlesnakes are kept. The centre helps to educate visitors about this endangered snake, and ways they are conserving the species.
A Walk Through the Desert
Outside, two kilometres of walking trails wind through the desert. Depending on the season, the air might carry the scent of sage, or perhaps flowering desert plants. Rabbitbrush and antelope brush are common, and you might also find cactus and larger trees scattered across the landscape. Plenty of interpretive signs tell you more about the plants and animals and how the people depended upon them.
At the replica summer village, more of Marchand’s sculpted figures bring the various scenes to life showing how people lived, the games they played, and animals they would have encountered such as black bears. Don’t miss the dugout canoe and distinctive leaf-shaped paddles, now protected under a roof. Panels describe the process of finding a cottonwood or pine tree and then expertly shaping and crafting the canoe.
Another display highlights pictographs or rock paintings showing newly-created designs based on those located elsewhere in the area. Pictographs sometimes depict animals, spirits, dreams or events.
We found the pit houses especially intriguing. These are substantial winter dwellings dug into the ground for extra insulation. Long logs formed the frame for the roof, then it was covered with grass and branches to keep out the cold.
The Desert Cultural Centre is one of many enterprises operated by the Osoyoos Indian Band. Their highly successful Nk’Mip Cellars winery offers tours and tastings. You can also book rooms in Spirit Ridge Resort, visit the day spa, or play a round of golf at the Sonora Dunes Golf Course. For fine dining, The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry restaurant features many locally sourced ingredients in its traditional and modern dishes.
When to Visit the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre
Plan on spending a couple of hours at least to visit the centre on your own and walk the trails, or join a guide for a more in-depth tour. Rattlesnakes or other wildlife might be near the trails. Bring a hat, sunscreen, and water during hot weather. The centre is closed on Sundays and Mondays. It is located at 1200 Rancher Creek Rd, Osoyoos, not far from Highway 3 which winds through town.
Final Thoughts
While in Osoyoos, enjoy the warm weather, stunning mountain and valley scenery, relaxing on the beach, and some of the best wines in the country. But to make your visit complete, don’t miss these two amazing desert centres to more fully appreciate a unique landscape found nowhere else in Canada.
For more things to do, check out our travel guides below!
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