Fredericton, New Brunswick is one of Canada’s most pleasant and easy-going capital cities. With a population of around 70,000, it’s big enough to have every amenity while avoiding the congestion and problems of many larger centres. It also helps to have a beautiful setting along the Saint John River, also known as the Wolastoq.
The city’s rich history dates back centuries from early Indigenous inhabitants to the fur trade era, French Acadians fleeing the British, United Empire Loyalists fleeing the American Revolution, playing a role in the Canadian Confederation, and becoming the site of Canada’s first English-speaking university, to name only a few notable episodes.
Part of what makes the city so appealing is that you can walk almost everywhere, with a compact downtown and a vast network of trails. A highlight is the Bill Thorpe Walking Bridge, a former railway bridge that crosses the wide river. It’s a wonderful link making it possible to enjoy both sides of the river on foot or bicycle without having to deal with traffic.
Historic Downtown Fredericton
Downtown is chock-a-block with historic buildings, especially in the Garrison District. It dates to the 18th century when it was a British military garrison complete with soldiers’ barracks guard house and other buildings. Much of the original architecture remains with the area now being used as a cultural centre for the city’s art scene and an entertainment venue.
Impressive churches dot the downtown and are also found in residential areas. Of special note is Christ Church Cathedral, which has been designated as a National Historic Site. Dating to 1845, it is an early example of Gothic Revival architecture in Canada. Go inside to fully appreciate the intricate and colourful stained glass windows, which were shipped in pieces from England in molasses barrels so they wouldn’t get broken.
The Fredericton Region Museum
This is a must-see. Housed in the former Officers Quarters in the Garrison District, the museum is home to over 30,000 artifacts covering every aspect of the history of Fredericton and this part of New Brunswick. A couple of exhibits stood out for us.
The most unusual is the legendary Coleman Frog. Back in 1885 when Fred Coleman went fishing, a big frog would jump into his boat. He decided to feed the frog with buttermilk and whiskey, and the frog eventually grew to 42 pounds (19 kg). Or did it? An interesting video shown at the exhibit takes a tongue-in-cheek look at whether this monstrous creature in the glass case is actually the real thing or an elaborate hoax. The best is to see for yourself and then jump to your own conclusions.
The other fascinating exhibit features Stanton Friedman, the famous UFO researcher and physicist credited with bringing the 1947 “alien crash” in Roswell, New Mexico to world attention. Friedman lived in Fredericton and the city even declared an official Stanton Friedman Day when he died in 2019.
Government House
Government House is the official residence and office of New Brunswick’s Lieutenant-Governor. Dating to 1828, the building played a key role in the union of British North America and in New Brunswick’s entry into Confederation. During spring and summer, much of the impressive building is open for free public tours. It is a museum as much as a residence with many of its original furnishings remaining. Official meetings and receptions still take place at the house.
Tour the Legislative Assembly building
New Brunswick has one of the older provincial legislatures in Canada. The current building dates to 1882, built after the former one was destroyed by fire. Tours are conducted when the Assembly is not in session. It’s an ornate place with elaborate decoration, and portraits of past officials, and features the largest spiral staircase in the Maritimes. The visitor’s gallery is the largest of any provincial legislature across Canada.
The biggest surprise lies tucked away in a corner of the committee room. Under protective glass, a special case holds an extremely rare original edition of the Birds of America book by John James Audubon. From 1827 to 1838 Audubon travelled across the continent to illustrate its birds. He came to Fredericton to paint the pine siskin. Only 120 copies of the book were printed. Each page measures a massive 100 cm x 140 cm. The government originally purchased the book for $850. Today its value would be in the millions.
Every few weeks the legislative librarian turns the book to another page. Our tour guide told us of visitors from Los Angeles who planned their trip to Atlantic Canada specifically so that their time in Fredericton would coincide with a page-turning.
The Beaverbrook Art Gallery
The Beaverbrook Art Gallery is among Canada’s finest. The gallery started with a significant collection given to the people of New Brunswick by Lord Beaverbrook (Max Aitken) who became a prominent politician in England but was originally from Miramichi, New Brunswick. It is housed in a striking white building on the river shore, directly across the street from the Legislature.
The artworks represent a who’s who of the art world, including pieces by J.M.W. Turner, John Constable, Thomas Gainsborough, and Salvador Dali. Prominent Canadian artists loom large such as Cornelius Krieghoff, Emily Carr, Alex Coleville, and members of the Group of Seven. They feature artists from Atlantic Canada and especially New Brunswick.
One striking exhibit that catches your attention when entering the main gallery is the Grandfather Akwiten’ Wolastoqiyik Canoe. Crafted in the 1920s with wood from New Brunswick forests, it is the oldest complete birchbark canoe in the world.
Another prized piece is “Santiago El Grande” by Salvador Dali. The huge painting depicts St. James (the patron saint of Spain) rising from the sea on his white horse while holding a crucifix. In true surrealistic Dali style, nothing is exactly as it seems. A sign in the gallery suggests that visitors look at the painting while lying on the floor in front of it. When you do this, it looks completely different.
The Natural Side of Fredericton
Not far from the city centre, we explored some of Fredericton’s many parks and green spaces. A favourite for locals and visitors alike is Odell Park, a 400-acre piece of land with a botanic garden and 16 kilometres of forest trails. The forest is so well preserved that you almost forget that you’re in the middle of a city rather than out in the wilderness.
Where to Eat and Drink in Fredericton
You are spoiled for choice when it comes to food and drink. One downtown restaurant we enjoyed was Isaac’s Way in the old brick courthouse dating to the 1850s on Queen Street. They have a strong focus on locally sourced food. As they put it, even the coffee mugs are made in New Brunswick. The interior is covered in artwork donated by New Brunswick artists and then sold by ongoing silent auctions, with the proceeds given to local charities.
Another nice option, especially on warm summer evenings, is the patio at King West Brewing and Rustico. Also in downtown Fredericton, this combination of craft brewery and eatery is part of Fredericton’s unique Taproom Trail. We enjoyed the IPA beer offerings, and the freshly prepared servings were plentiful.
If you’re a beer fan, you’ve come to the right place since the number of taprooms per capita in Fredericton is among the highest in the country. And using the city’s trail system, you can walk between most of them. Just pick up a map of the Taproom Trail and every time you have a drink at one, you get a passport-style stamp which can earn you prizes.
If we had to pick a favourite taproom, it would be Picaroons Brewing Company located on the riverbank on the opposite side of the pedestrian bridge from downtown. We enjoyed their traditional ales but they also offer cider, stout, and more. It is located in a former railway roundhouse that was used for turning around locomotives. But the highlight in summer is the expansive and highly popular outdoor patio. They have a takeout food area if you want a bite to eat on the patio with your beer.
Where to Stay in Fredericton
While Frederiction has a wide array of accommodations, where it really shines are the Bed & Breakfasts in historic homes. A top choice is the Red House. The elegant home dating to 1859 has been restored with many original furnishings still intact. It has every amenity you could possibly think of. The sumptuous breakfast is served when and where you want it, from the elegant dining room to the patio or in your room. Then there are nice extra touches such as a glass of Prosecco on your arrival. The best part is that the owners John and Monica are perfect hosts and have a wealth of information on everything to see and do in Fredericton. Since the house is located on the edge of downtown, you can leave your car there and walk almost everywhere.
Also near downtown is Quartermain House Bed & Breakfast. With only two guestrooms, this 5-star property gives special attention to guests. Owner Debra Quartermain preserved the classic Gothic Revival architecture and character of the home while striking just the right balance between antique furnishings and modern conveniences. Be prepared for a big breakfast the next morning. Debra’s specialty is an aged cheese omelette served with berry cobbler plus fresh fruit and all the trimmings. Quartermain House is along the river, and it’s a short jaunt to the walking bridge.
What’s Nearby?
Several attractions are only a short drive from Fredericton. Topping the list is King’s Landing, a living history museum about 20 minutes to the west along the river. The huge complex looks at life in 19th-century rural New Brunswick with buildings from that period, one of Atlantic Canada’s largest collections of historic artifacts, and costumed characters playing the roles of early residents. There are farmsteads complete with animals, a blacksmith, a water-operated grist mill and lumber mill, churches, a store, and a printing shop to mention only a few. You can even enjoy a drink at the King’s Head Inn and travel around the grounds on a horse-drawn wagon.
Not far south of King’s Landing is the small town of Harvey, where a sculpture of a big fiddle commemorates fiddling legend Don Messer who came from nearby. It’s also home to Big Fiddle Still, an award-winning craft distillery specializing in flavour-infused vodka. More than a distillery, owner Trent Jewett has a wealth of stories on the days of moonshining and bootlegging.
If you like odd larger-than-life roadside attractions, check out the world’s largest axe (15 metres high) a bit farther west at Nackawic which pays tribute to the forestry industry. Then there’s the big potato at the farm vegetable market southeast of Fredriction at Maugerville.
A short drive south of Fredericton at Rusagonis we can see the impressive Patrick Owens covered bridge. Over 70 metres long, the bridge has an unusual full-length window along one side. The picnic site next to it even has a picnic shelter shaped like a covered bridge.
For more things to do, check out our travel guides below:
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